Why a Banarasi Shop from 1913 Still Matters

By Shweta Sonali — 2026-10-05

Walk into a Banarasi saree shop in Varanasi and you see the same question played out in a hundred different stalls. Which ones are selling the real thing?

That problem—distinguishing genuine work from everything pretending to be genuine—sits at the heart of why JDS Banaras, a shop that's been operating since 1913, keeps mattering. It's not because they're the oldest. It's because they're still doing what they promised to do when the Shah family started the business over a hundred years ago: making Banarasi sarees the actual way.

The Shah family had a love for Banaras textiles long before they opened the shop. When they did, they built it around a single goal—keeping the true beauty and skill of Banarasi weaving alive. Most businesses would have abandoned that. Most did. But four generations in, that goal hasn't shifted.

What's shifted is everything else.

The way people shop has changed utterly. You used to walk into a shop. Now you scroll through your phone. But JDS Banaras kept four simple values intact: respecting the craft, caring about quality, understanding what customers want, and never lowering standards. All of that was backed by something concrete—their own workshop. They don't buy sarees from someone else and resell them. They make them.

That matters because the market now is strangled with counterfeits. People sell you polyester blends and call them Banarasi. They use machine-made brocades from halfway across the country and claim them as authentic. A Banarasi saree is supposed to involve many hands—preparing thread, weaving, designing, finishing. None of that happens in a machine at speed. But you wouldn't know it from walking past most shops.

JDS Banaras works directly with over 3,000 skilled weavers. That's not a sales figure. That's a network. It's the thing that lets the family actually keep weavers alive as a community instead of turning them into a story you tell to justify your margin.

The kinds of weaving they offer aren't shortcuts. Jangala with its flowing floral patterns, Shikargah with detailed storytelling scenes, Meenakari with its colourful thread work. Then there's the slow, careful work of Kadwa and Cutwork weaving. Each takes hours. No machine copies that faithfully. You can approximate it. You can't replicate it.

Rajesh Shah, a fourth-generation member of the family, puts it simply. Being the best Banarasi saree shop in Varanasi was never about being the biggest. It was about being the most trustworthy. His father's generation worked closely with Varanasi's weavers. So does his. That relationship, he says, is still at the heart of everything.

Viresh Shah handles the business side, thinking about growth and reaching more customers. But growth without holding the line doesn't work. A saree made by actually respecting the craft will never compete on price with a machine-made fake. It shouldn't have to.

What makes JDS Banaras different isn't nostalgia. It's verticality. They make, supply, and sell everything themselves. This means they control quality at every step—from choosing the thread to handing the finished saree to the customer. No middlemen deciding your margin comes before authenticity.

That's not how most of the market works anymore. But if you want a Banarasi saree that's actually Banarasi, someone has to work that way.

Source: https://theprint.in/ani-press-releases/from-1913-to-today-jds-banaras-continues-the-tradition-of-banarasi-weaving/3062043/